First Impressions of the Port
Standing on the hills of Valparaíso, I first experienced the city's charm. The blue Pacific Ocean sparkles in the distance, colorful houses stack like building blocks on steep hillsides, and old elevators slowly climb, elegantly connecting the city together. This was South America's most important trading port in the 19th century and is now a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Morning sunlight bathes the harbor docks, seagulls cry in the distance, and fishermen have already started their day's work. Standing atop Arturo Hill, I watch the entire city slowly wake in the morning light. Containers line up neatly in the port area, with occasional freighters whistling as they enter. The city's unique topography reminds me of San Francisco, but there's an indescribable romantic quality here.
The houses on the hillside are like paint splashed on a palette - red, yellow, blue, green - each with its own character. Some houses have walls covered in beautiful murals, while others maintain their century-old appearance. I particularly love those walls wrapped in corrugated iron, gleaming metallically in the sunlight, as if telling stories of past glory.
Memories of Prosperity
Did you know? Before the Panama Canal opened, Valparaíso was the busiest port in all of South America. Ships from around the world docked here daily, bringing various treasures. The Chilean nitrate trade was booming, with this port handling over 90% of exports. Statistics show that between 1880 and 1914, nitrate exports alone brought Chile more than 100 million pounds in revenue, equivalent to one-third of Chile's annual GDP at the time.
In the port museum, I saw many precious historical photographs. The docks in the photos are crowded with merchant ships from various countries, sailors busy loading and unloading cargo, and warehouses along the dock filled with goods awaiting shipment. Valparaíso then was not just a trading center but a cultural melting pot. Merchants from Britain, Germany, France, and Italy settled here, bringing their architectural styles, lifestyles, and business cultures.
From a local elder's introduction, I learned that late 19th century Valparaíso was truly a city that never slept. Dock area taverns operated all night, with sailors from around the world exchanging sailing stories. British merchants' tea rooms, German-run beer houses, and French cafes gave the city an international atmosphere. Valparaíso was then known as the "Jewel of South America" and was one of the most prosperous port cities along the entire Pacific coast.
Architectural Stories
Walking through Valparaíso's streets, traces of that golden age are everywhere. These buildings are not just brick and mortar, but witnesses to an era. I particularly love the Victorian-style buildings around Plaza Alegre, their iron-clad walls gleaming in the sunlight, making one feel transported back to the prosperous days of the late 19th century.
In the Concepción Hill area, I discovered a particularly interesting building. It's an English mansion built in 1880, now converted into a boutique hotel. The hotel owner is a history-loving Chilean who spent five full years restoring the building. Inside, I was amazed by the beautiful wooden staircase and stained glass windows. The stair railings are made from imported British teak, still smooth as new after a century. The stained glass windows were custom-made in Belgium, each piece telling a story about seafaring.
In the city's financial district, the old bank buildings left a deep impression on me. Most adopt a neoclassical style, with tall stone columns, exquisite carvings, and magnificent arches, all showcasing the wealth and status of that time. Most notable is the headquarters of Chile's First Bank, built in 1883, one of Chile's earliest bank buildings. The building's atrium retains its original glass skylight, and when sunlight shines through the colored glass onto the marble floor, the entire space seems magical.
The Legend of the Elevators
Speaking of Valparaíso, one can't ignore its unique elevator system. Can you imagine? Some of these elevators, called "ascensores," have been serving for over 100 years. At their peak, there were 31 elevators, though only 16 remain operating today. About 10,000 residents use these ancient elevators daily for commuting, with tickets very affordable at just 300 pesos (about $0.4).
I was fortunate to interview Juan, an operator who has worked on the ascensores for 40 years. He told me these elevators are like the city's blood vessels, connecting residents' lives up and down the hills. Each elevator has its own personality and story. For instance, the Concepción elevator, built in 1883, is the city's oldest. It was initially steam-powered before being converted to electricity. Juan said that in his years of work, he has witnessed countless stories: couples who met and fell in love in the elevators, regular residents who ride at the same time every day, and even newlyweds who held their wedding in an elevator.
These elevators are not just transportation, but living history. Each has its unique architectural style, some like Victorian-era train stations, others like castles from fairy tales. My favorite is the Baron elevator, with its waiting room designed like a typical English train station, red brick walls complemented by ironwork decorations, so exquisite that people want to stop and take photos.
Artistic Atmosphere
In recent years, Valparaíso's street art has given the city new vitality. My favorite is the murals on Bellavista Hill, where works blend Chilean traditional elements with modern artistic styles. According to incomplete statistics, there are currently over 1,500 large murals in the city, with about 100 new works added annually. These artworks not only make the city more colorful but also attract many tourists, bringing about $2 million in tourism revenue to the city last year just from street art.
In the Bellavista district, I met Martin, a local street artist. He has been creating murals here for ten years, witnessing the development of the city's street art. Martin told me that Valparaíso's walls are like canvases for artists, each wall telling a different story. Some murals reflect social issues, some showcase Chilean traditional culture, and others simply aim to make the city more beautiful.
Most impressive was a 50-meter-long mural occupying an entire street's exterior wall. This work was completed through collaboration among five artists from different countries, combining Chilean folklore with modern urban life. The mural includes both traditional Chilean fishermen images and modern street scenes, vibrant with life. Martin said this mural took two full months to complete, with many people stopping to watch the creation process daily.
Food Memories
In the old town near the port, I discovered many historic restaurants. Most impressive was a seafood restaurant over 150 years old, where they say their fish stew is made from a hereditary recipe. The restaurant owner told me their recipe was learned from British sailors in the 1860s and has been localized through generations of improvements.
This restaurant is located in a 19th-century building, with wooden floors that creak from age, and walls covered with old photographs and nautical instruments. I ordered their famous fish stew, and the server told me the recipe came from a British captain. Apparently, that captain particularly loved local Chilean seafood and taught the restaurant's first chef the traditional British fish stew recipe. The current version incorporates unique Chilean spices and seafood, creating a distinctive flavor.
Besides traditional restaurants, there are many street-side shops in the port area. I especially like a small shop selling churros (a traditional South American dessert), where the owner, now over 70 years old, still gets up at 4 AM every morning to prepare the dough. She told me her father opened the shop in the 1940s, mainly serving breakfast to dock workers. Although there are fewer port workers now, business remains good, with many tourists coming specifically to visit.
A Promising Future
Today's Valparaíso is undergoing new transformation. Though no longer South America's most important trading port, the city is developing cultural and creative industries. Last year, the creative industry alone created about 5,000 jobs, accounting for 8% of the city's GDP. Many young artists choose to settle here, injecting new vitality into this century-old city.
I interviewed several young entrepreneurs in the art district. They include those running design studios, creative shops, and cafes. These young people are attracted by Valparaíso's artistic atmosphere and historical heritage, choosing to start their careers here. A designer named Carlos told me he particularly loves the creative environment here - the old buildings, street art, and harbor atmosphere all inspire him.
The city government is also actively promoting urban transformation. They plan to invest $5 million over the next five years to restore historical buildings and develop cultural industries. This includes converting several abandoned warehouses into art centers and creative parks, providing work and exhibition spaces for young artists. Meanwhile, the government is also strengthening the protection of historical buildings, establishing strict restoration standards to ensure the city doesn't lose its historical character while developing.
Have you visited similar historical port cities? I'm curious if there are places with such rich stories in other parts of the world. If you're also interested in these historical travel destinations, feel free to share your experiences in the comments.
(To be continued. Would you like to learn more about Chile's other historical sites? Next time we'll talk about other historical relics in Chile.)
